Ones to Watch

This week, it’s Westminster ’07, “Clown”, Kevin Flamme and Resort SHows that get the praise and incur the wrath of Liam

Designer: Westminster ‘07

Every year a huge fuss is made over the Central St Martins graduate show, but some feel it has lost its sparkle due to students concentrating on commercial viability and intricacy of skill in order to secure the most prestigious jobs. Last year’s grads from Westminster, though, were far more experimental, and earned deserved plaudits. Look out for Wai-Yee Wong, Louise Taylor and Linn Holm in particular.

Trend: Clown

It’s a bit dodgy given the whole Heath Ledger thing, but club kids tired of using black eyeshadow and glasses with the lenses poked out are spending hours mixing face paint and a warped sense of respect for the dead to look like a crazed clown. The signs were there before. Bows are everywhere on the high street these days, Dior Homme did baggy, pleated leather (read clown) pants, and Galliano’s menswear (pictured) had jester influences.

Model: Kevin Flamme

Aged just 16 when he opened a show for the late Yves Saint Laurent, Flamme, native to La Rochelle, has been a favourite of European designers for the past three seasons, getting consistent work with Hermès, and adding high profile bookings with Paul Smith and the ascendant Lanvin to his resumé. A GQ (and Playboy) favourite, Flamme will be everywhere now that his lycée has set him free.

Disaster: Resort Shows

Seen by fashion moguls as a way to exploit the wealthy by offering summer clothes in winter, and seen by the designer as something a bit desultory, resort or cruise collections have unfortunately become big business. Already stretched designers churn out hideous but expensive ensembles that pale in comparison to their spring/summer collections, case in point Chanel. As if to throw a knowing wink to fashion editors, the show was held in Miami, with the models walking around a pool before being entertained by the US synchronised swimming team. Each model an anachronism, each buyer a twat. Coco cries.

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