Caught between a rather small Sainsbury’s and a ghostly churchyard, Melton’s is an unlikely find. Having been invited out to dinner by a group of London businessmen (they hoped lively female company would shake up their dull corporate lives), we were prepared for a stuffy atmosphere and self-important food.

If you like pickled eggs, you’ll like The Blue Bell. If you’re not fond of pickled eggs, but you like the idea of a pickled egg, then you’ll certainly be agreeable to a stint in The Blue Bell.

The café is upstairs and has the sort of airy feel to it which borders on the bit-too-empty. The staff looked at us suspiciously when we entered; “Muggles?”, whispered one young waitress.

The café is upstairs and has the sort of airy feel to it which borders on the bit-too-empty. The staff looked at us suspiciously when we entered; “Muggles?”, whispered one young waitress.

There was a single lonely window overlooking the street. Bronte fans might speculate that if the Rochesters had moved to town, this would have been ‘that room’: perfect for the secretion of embarrassing, unwanted lunatic relatives.

This bistro is the best in York with prices to match. So start saving. Give up as many things as you can for lent, because the five stars are no joke. The Hotel has a clear aim: to attract a rich clientele coming to York for the racing season.