LFW AW15 Highlights: Rejina Pyo & Toga

takes a look at their impact upon London’s biggest fashion event

Rejina Pyo

Even with only two seasons under her belt, the award-winning Seoul born designer has been all the rage amongst fashion retailers worldwide. A graduate of the prestigious Central Saint Martins, Rejina Pyo is known for exploring masculine silhouettes while incorporating geometric shapes infused with quirky colour combinations.

Image: Deborah Lam

Image: Deborah Lam

Inspired by her trips to California’s Joshua Tree and the never ending deserts of the American West, Pyo’s AW15 collection was a demure take on nature’s inherent contradictions. It introduced several new elements; substituting vibrant colours with muted earth tones while still retaining traces of her idiosyncrasies.

In fact, throughout the show, the word “mellow” kept coming into mind. Complementing the cosy antique setting, her collection showcased loose-fitting yet sleek pieces. Oversized coats were embroidered with leaf motif jacquards, while cropped flares and velvet dresses were presented in yellow and metallic shades.

Pyo’s ingenious use of tweed was a key feature in her collection. Through its discreet execution, tweed was heavily contrasted using a high shine texture, bringing about a contemporary and almost industrial feel. Even with olde worlde atmosphere created by Pyo’s distinctive utilisation of abstract paintings and graphic shapes, it accompanied the overall theme seamlessly.

Image: Deborah Lam

Image: Deborah Lam

A high degree of practicality and versatility in clothing is an essential consideration for Autumn/Winter selections and it was evident Pyo centred her collection to address just that. Extensive detail was paid for wearers to embrace her collection as timeless investment pieces. Constructed with robust raw edged wool and leathers, coats and skirts are reversible, encouraging adaptability and sturdiness to suit various circumstances. Subtle positioning of zips also allow wearers to alternate between wide legged and slim-cut options.

It is clear Rejina Pyo’s out to impress in her new collection, and there can be no doubt that she has definitely done it again.

 

Toga

Beyond the strong connotations attached to it, there is more to Japanese fashion than merely Lolita girls parading on Harajuku Street. Its vibrant high street fashion industry has produced fashion titans with the likes of Yohji Yamamoto (Y-3) and Rei Kawakubo (Comme Des Garcons) –  set to join the them is Yasuko Furuta.

As the founder of Toga, Furuta’s label is known for its extensive use of fabrics delivered in bold silhouettes. Her masterful execution in mixing conflicting textures and volumes into extremely wearable pieces has gained adoration from the urban and avant-garde base – most notably, Katy Perry.

Image: Deborah Lam

Image: Deborah Lam

Set within the mellow and spacious wood-panelled rooms of Chelsea College of Art and Design, Toga’s AW15 show was presented in the most peculiar way. The unconstrained setting was a pleasant contrast to the orderly and rigid manner of the LFW schedule where guests were allowed to roam the rooms freely as the models sauntered to the soothing rhythm of atmospheric music.

With not a single discernible theme, this was also mirrored in the pieces of her collection.

Drawing influence from her Japanese heritage, dresses and tops were adorned with satins of various striking colours, giving a kimono-esque appearance of boxy and deconstructed silhouettes that critics have come to love. Gingham and plaid fabrics were also prevalent in her eclectic collection, as jackets and cigarette trousers were given strong contours and muted pastel colours to provide a masculine and blasé quality.

Furuta’s mantra for her label is to “create for a complex woman who can only live in chaos”, and with the sheer amount of contrasting, yet palatable mix of garments, it was hard to characterise her show into any other word than – you’ve guessed it – chaos. You never really know what to expect from a Toga show and change really does seem to be the only constant in Furuta’s vision for Toga – which is what makes the label such a thrill to follow.

 

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