Avant-garde elegance mixed with disturbing skeletal structures characterised Marko Mitanovski’s Autumn/Winter 2015 catwalk show.
Mitanovski is a Serbian designer, who was educated at The College of Design in Belgrade. His work gained international attention after the success of his ‘Lady Macbeth’ collection, which incorporated his trademark antler headpieces and dramatic, sculptural, corseted jackets. With celebrities such as Lady Gaga and Paloma Faith sporting his unique statement pieces, he is well-known internationally for his designs which blend the boundaries of the gothic and the supernatural.
This collection was no different from his usual bizarre presentations; a collective gasp resounded from the audience as the first model graced the catwalk floor. Her face was veiled with a black-jewelled mask, her bodice equally as intricately adorned in a lacy, see through all-in-one. Most strikingly, her arms were encased in a feathered shawl, heavily structured to look like the wings of a raven.
The striking impact of Mitanovski’s first design of the collection did not wear off. Models continued to walk stiffly and slowly down the catwalk to the sound of random, syncopated noises. Sewn into black corsets and leather trousers, their movements eerily mirrored those of a zombie, with greased back, black spray painted hair and red eyes resembling something out of your worst nightmare.
Mitanovski’s designs are inspired by the forms of nature, with a particular focus on the skeletal structure of birds and reptiles. Certain designs featured creepily realistic bones that appeared to be protruding out of the clothing, most notably the black spinal cord escaping out of a Victorian style jacket. By combining the historical and the natural, he demonstrates his creative and innovative achievements as a designer.
The finale created a perfect contrast to end the show. Instead of the gothic, black painted figures, a white model emerged. She wore a structured, corseted dress, with the neckline shaping around her face and resting just beneath her eyes, allowing the model to convey the mystery of the show through her intimidating stare.
What can be most appreciated is the laborious detail put into each of Mitanovski’s designs, and his entire collection. Many of the pieces resembled stunning costumes you would find in a blockbuster film, making his collection one of London Fashion Week’s most memorable.