The fourth day proved to be just as exciting as the previous days, kick-starting things off was the well-received Wilson PK show. Inspired by cubism and the architectural cityscape, his designs were filled with asymmetric silhouettes, and dresses and jackets in leathers, organza and power knits. The clothes also had unique textural details such as foiling, 3D-printed beading and rubber mixed with lamb’s wool. The colours were fairly muted in blacks, pearlized whites, pale blues and greens, and accented with primary colours.
Following on from this was Huishan Zhang’s beautiful collection, presented at the luxuriously grandiose hotel, The Mirror Room in High Holborn. The interior was very elegant with marbled flooring, columns, chandelier lighting, there was also a provision of sumptuous h’ors d’oeuvres and seating areas from which to admire the show. His designs were the height of sophistication: full length gowns with sparkled gridding overlaying sheer black chiffon, white lace against rich blue gowns and lovely off the shoulder oversized wool and blend coats.
Later when wondering around the show rooms at Somerset House, we spoke to some up and coming designers. First was Sadie Williams, whose collection was inspired by folk technique and culture, weaving ribbons into fabrics, mixing colours and textures, and working with graphic patterns. Speaking to Sadie, she explained that the reason behind her contrasting material choices was the desire to “come up with something original”, an ambition designers must find difficult to achieve. When asked who her fashion inspirations were she replied, “60s archives” and “Valentino”. Afterwards we were admiring the lovely designs of Daniel Cerdan, who worked with a material called ‘spacer’, thick yet light and similar to sportswear fabrics. The material lent itself to be moulded into stiff architectural structures, which featured heavily in the skirts. Juxtaposing this were the rich reds, turquoises and blacks with Spanish-inspired onyx stone embellished flared sleeves, giving the clothes a classic 50’s feminine vibe.
Finishing the day with Dora Abodi and her early 90s ‘kid’ science fiction theme with a dash of London rave parties-inspired collection. The designs focused heavily on the theme of conflict. This is reflected in the fine craftsmanship of the delicate hand embroidery overlaying destructive wrinkled metallic fabrics. Further inspirations came from an array of sources, mainly the very reflective topics of innocence vs sin, religion vs paganism and half human vs half extra-terrestrial.