It was a windy affair as London Fashion Week begun this season, so coats were out in force. Capes were all the range for the traditional camel to the fur-lined and tartan extravagances. It seems the designers had already pre-empted the weather and showcased a tremendous array. It was black with lines of gold at Daks, then sheer, teal-toned and floor length at Zeynep Kartal.
Some were even attached to the front of dresses, while others were made purely out of thick knit and hung low to reveal bare backs. They might not have beaten the weather but the burgundy, dual fur poncho version seen at Bora Aksu would be worth the chill.-RT
Bringing a splash of interior design to the catwalk, wallpaper prints were out in force. Holly Fulton incorporated floral designs in coats, blazers and organza dresses with prints that were overblown or pale, or combined with geometric patterns that stayed true to her image. House of Holland featured blue and yellow knee-length dresses with striking 70s-inspired flock wallpaper designs, sticking to the show’s themes of decadence and indulgence.
For more grandeur examples of flock wallpaper, Paul Smith had plenty to offer. Vibrant paisley patterns also appeared in his collection, appearing on scarves, loose dresses and one highly desirable but laid-back dressing gown. However, it was Tamar and Natasha Surguladze’s Tata Naka label that had the loudest wallpaper experience, with actual decorative wallpaper and Brocade carpets providing the backdrop to their colourful collection.-GW
Last season it was all about white, but for this autumn and winter the colour of choice has to be red, whether it is rich in velvet as seen at John Rocha, or in multiple shades of popping scarlet that appeared at Sibling. For gloriously darker shades, turn to Bora Aksu. Red was also in numerous complete looks from designer Emilio de la Morena, who matched it with vivid red heels. If you are going to wear this bold colour with anything else, go for clashing pink and work the look à la House of Holland. For more inspiration see Tom Ford’s crushed velvet and Issa’s silk pants. Or if you aren’t daring enough to dress from head-to-toe in red, opt for Anya Hindmarch’s leather tote with additional digestive packet tassel.-RT
Everyone went a bit crazy for the furry, hairy and textured garments this LFW. For inspiration see John Rocha, and head to the high street on the look out for funnel-neck boxy knits, fur pelmet skirts (a fun piece for some interesting style), full-length midis and skaters, and not forgetting teddy-fur coats. Texture has been on designers’ radars since AW13 with shearling, suede and fur in voluminous forms and plenty of it, over SS13 it took on a futuristic feel with shiny finishes, and this season we saw the merging of these two. Patent and metallic leathers have collided with teddy-textured faux and knits and the result is fabulous. On the catwalk it was showcased by Felder Felder, House of Holland, Eudon Choi and Christopher Raeburn.-RT
The trusty roll-neck. Whoever thought that it would one day be showcased on a catwalk? Once something only your mother wore, or you under force, is now the staple in every fashionista’s wardrobe. Thin versions worn underneath everything are not only fashionable but also extremely practical (especially for London in February). Seen at JW Anderson, David Koma and House of Holland, these extra layers are chic in the extreme, not a bulky silhouette in sight. Even Antipodium’s Geoffrey J. Finch wore a sleek, white one to take his bow.
Chunkier versions adorned the models at Sibling, KTZ and Pringle; these have already leaked out onto the streets. The only way to combat the fierce winds at Somerset House was to tuck your hair into your roll neck and voilà, problem solved. What was once a discarded piece of clothing is now the easiest way to update your wardrobe to have it AW14 ready.-IA
AW14 is all about the tuck and grab. Clutches were everywhere, on catwalks and the street alike. At Topshop, duffle bags were casually tucked under the arm, the smartness of the bag offset by the relaxed way the models wore it. Bag of the season? The adorable polar bears at Christopher Raeburn, even better than the dinosaurs at last season’s shows. Fill with your stuff and cuddle to your chest. Use as a pillow when no one is watching.-IA
Black is back and it’s looking pretty sexy. Whether flat or heeled, furry or embellished, shoes were in the fashionista’s colour of choice. Perfect with both tights and bare legs, the shoes to be coverting to are those that were seen strutting down the Simone Rocha catwalk. They look so perfect – whatever the girl and whatever the outfit. As Coco Chanel said, “Black has it all.” I have to say that it appears this season, the designers agreed.-IA