LFW AW14: Picks from the show space

Our favourite collections from the exhibition spaces of London Fashion Week

Photo credit: Fiona Hill

Photo credit: Fiona Hill

Favourite Designer: Martine Jarlgaard

Danish-native Martine, who has resided in London for over a decade now, describes herself as a “bit of a geek” when she talks enthusiastically about her compulsion to source only the finest quality fabrics from across the world, to the extent that she has even worked with master fabric designers to create her very own bespoke materials.

Martine is a highly thoughtful and intelligent woman, who describes her collection with a quote from Danish philosopher Kierkegaard: “Once you label me, you negate me”. Her collection, which is subtle yet sophisticated, highly feminine and beautifully elegant, is made, she says, for a woman who is conscious not only of the way she dresses, but also in what she dresses. Above all, however, her ideal client would demonstrate some kind of intellect. In essence, Martine is her collection: a story behind the material.

Favourite Accessories Designer: Alice Cicolini

If you’re often dripping in layers of necklaces, rings and brooches, yet not willing to compromise on quality, Alice Cicolini is the designer for you. Her quirky and colourful pieces, which would grab anyone’s eye in an instant, consist of only the finest combinations of colours and components. Inspired by her travels to India, her necklaces are exotic in colour and design, embellished with beads and tassels in Eastern-inspired hues.

Alice does not just work in large scale, however, but also points out the finer elements of her designs that may go unnoticed by the untrained eye; incorporating fine elements of engravings inspired by the work of master craftsmen. These craftsmen, who pass on the traditions of their native culture, prefer to work in 23.5 carat gold for its softness and quality, which enable more detailed and expressive work to be brought to life as taught by their forefathers from generations past. Overall, Alice’s collection is an extraordinarily vibrant and rich example of true passion for one’s craft and respect for the wisdom of one’s elders.

Favourite Collection: Romance Was Born

With its exotic colours, eclectic patterns and intricate detailing, walking through the Romance Was Born collection was like journeying through a tropical rainforest teeming with life whilst high on hallucinogenic drugs. It is an untamed explosion of colour, imagery and sequins that screams to be worn in full pattern-clashing glory, as modelled by one of the designers herself sitting quietly nearby. Not for the faint-hearted, or the inhibited, the Romance Was Born collection is the collaborative work of artists, graphic designers, and ultimately the garment designers themselves who turn the 2D works into a wearable piece.

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