We know it’s only Spring but after the intermittent snow we feel it’s best to look at what we will all be wearing next Autumn and Winter as it’s the weather for fur, not florals. Here is a round up of what we saw in February for Autumn/Winter 2013-14, with a patriotic focus on London’s Fashion Week…
We saw red, red, and red all over this season. For red in all its glory take a look at Dolce & Gabbana’s all red finale. Head to toe red was used to punctuate otherwise relatively neutral colour palettes. Eudon Choi sent out a lady like pillar box red chiffon shirt and pleated skirt ensemble that oozed richness and sophistication. At Burberry a soft palette of muted browns was interjected with a flash of grown up red in the form of a simple midi dress. For more see Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, Peter Pilotto and J.W.Anderson.
White was big last season, which was no surprise for Spring/Summer but it is back again for Autumn/Winter. Full white and off white outfits opened shows such as Zoë Jordan and Bora Aksu. Shades of white were seen as complete looks from J.JS.Lee to L’Wren Scott. White ensemble after ensemble came out at big names such as Elie Saab and Loewe. If you are going to wear your white with one other colour; go for monochrome and wear it with black. Pringle of Scotland showed the perfect monochrome look; a tailored white sleeveless dress with on trend elbow length black leather gloves. For more see Moschino Cheap and Chic, Osman and Giles.
You just need to take a quick look at fashionista.com’s colour map to recognise the importance of blue in the four fashion capitals this season. Head to toe navy is a chic update on head to toe black (which was also seen in abundance). Navy provided us with a sophisticated tailoring at the likes of Ferragamo and Miu Miu but blue was seen in every shade. London had the brightest palette with beautiful cobalt blue at Lucas Nascimento and soft powder blue at Topshop Unique. For more see Celine, Maison Martin Margiela and Chloe.
Leather & PVC
This Autumn/Winter leather was used in ways which were sharp and sophisticated, and in ways that were young and edgy. At Eudon Choi we saw beautifully tailored trousers in deep burgundy for unexpected workwear chic. Whilst the same rich leather was used for panelled outerwear to spruce up a casual jacket. A leather pencil skirt is a must, seen at Bolzoni and Walsh, Moshino Cheap and Chic and Felder Felder. Leather stopped being grown up and shouted sex appeal in shows such as Topshop Unique when Cara strutted down the runway in a black PVC miniskirt. Overtly shiny PVC miniskirts appeared at Meadham Kirchhoff and Marios Schwab too. For more see Simone Rocha, Bora Aksu and Jonathan Saunders.
Fur made an appearance in almost every show I saw this season. To copy Cruella de Vil’s villain chic why not opt for floor length fur as seen at House of Holland and Sister by Sibling. Admittedly ground sweeping fur can not be worn for any occasion but this season there was fur for everyone. Fur trim at Bora Aksu, fur panelling at Eudon Choi, fur stoles at Christopher Kane, tailored fur jackets at KTZ, fur collars at PPQ, fur gilets at Preen. Fur came in red, white, pink, black and everything in between. Need we say anymore? See more at Topshop Unique, Tom Ford and Mulberry.
Embellishment & Shine
If it’s not got leather or fur on, it’s likely to have something shiny on it. Embellishment was seen in the most extravagant and fabulous of ways at Dolce & Gabbana. Think Italian medieval and renaissance religious masterpieces; lapis lazuli, blood red and a healthy dose of gold. Frescos were turned into dresses and heavily embellished with mounds of glinting golden beads. Sarah Burton at Alexander Mcqueen showed another collection fit for the renaissance. Ornate bodices worn with voluminous sleeves topped full skirts in a runway show that was a trip through time. Sheen featured largely at the brands from the high street such a Whistles and Topshop Unique, so this is a trend you can expect to see a lot of. Shiny also came in the form of sequins and glitter in Swarovski embellishment at Eudon Choi and a full sequin jumpsuit at Topshop Unique. For more see L’Wren Scott, Paskal and Julien Macdonald.
All about the Shoulders
Even though designers were showing for Autumn/Winter there was a heavy focus on revealed shoulders. The cold shoulder look has been around for a while now, and it’s clear it’s here to stay. Bandeau tops galore were shown from J.W.Anderson to Stella McCartney. If you’re not willing to bare your shoulders in the harsh english winter, cover them in style with the must have cover up of the season; the cape. The best kind of cape is sharp and tailored, for perfect inspiration see Victoria Beckham. For more see Peter Pilotto, Hermes, Chloe and Christian Dior.
Polo necks, or turtlenecks for our transatlantic counterparts, are the perfect cold weather wear. The high collar was seen on many catwalks and are refined, practical and ladylike. It’s not easy to find a runway without an elegant polo neck but for a youthful interpretation see J.JS. Lee and J.W.Anderson. For a little more grown up look see polo necks worn under 70s style dresses at Issa London, and zipped up to the top jackets, jumpers and coats at Miu Miu. If you want a high collar with a bit of an edge, have a look at Acne’s larger than life jacket collars. For more see Mulberry, Hermes and Etro.
90s to Millennium
The 90s grunge girl was still strong this Autumn/Winter. A special mention to Hedi Slimane at the newly named Saint Laurent for an entire grungy collection which has received much criticism from fashion writers, and also plenty of praise from the likes of Leandra Medine. Marques’Almeida too showed a blast from the past in their Skunk Anansie and Winona Ryder inspired denim extravaganza. Think late 90s, turn of the millennium, All Saints and Spice Girls style spaghetti strapped tops and skirts worn over trousers. You don’t needmuch reference, we all remember it; grungy hair, black eye liner, crop tops and plenty of attitude a la the Gallagher brothers, but for more see DKNY, Mulberry and J.W.Anderson.