Photos: Lily Grant
The super duo that are Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida were awarded NEWGEN sponsorship from the British Fashion Council for the second season last December, and you can see why. As the show notes say, the duo subscribe to the Helmut Lang school of thought: ‘fashion is about attitude, not hemlines.’ This motto echoes around the entirety of Marques’ Almeida’s A/W13 collection.
The 90s soundtrack instantly transported you back and combined with the models look of ‘just got up’ hair and kohl lined eyes; it was 90s grunge down to a tee. Marques’ Almeida are the ‘go to brand for distressed denim’ and this season certainly didn’t disappoint. Jeans were worn slim, with the bottoms being slashed, heavily frayed and dragged behind to reveal a chunky plastic Mary Jane shoe, in white or black. We saw denim turned into head to toe camouflage, trousers, spaghetti-strapped tops and anything else you could possibly want.
Their inspiration was Skunk Anansie and Winona Ryder; glamorous but ‘rough around the edges’. Glamour seeped through the collection in evening gown-like wide trousers and delicate spaghetti-strapped tops in deep jewel tones in rich fabrics. Red, white and blue were the colours Marques and Almeida chose, to create an optimistic Americana spirit. This collection was a highlight of Fashion Week; it was unobviously sexy, sophisticated, effortlessly cool and easily wearable.