LFW: Jena. Theo Show Report

Photos: Agatha Torrance

An extract from Hunter S. Thompson’s Hell Angels provided the ambience for Jena. Theo’s Autumn/Winter 2013 collection: ‘The girls stood in a group, wearing bright lipstick and the blank, wary expressions of half bright souls turned mean and nervous from too much bitter wisdom in too few years.’

The girls did just that; they appeared one by one and gathered in a gang in front of a screen printed with Jena. Theo’s signature smiley logo. They dripped in moody attitude, gazing into the audience with ne’er-do-well stares as they strut the catwalk, sleek hair hanging nonchalantly over one eye.

When you managed to look away from the models, the clothes were just as captivating. Oversized was the silhouette of choice, jackets hung off the body, as did the dresses. The coats, jackets, and jumpers were fashioned into a cocoon shape that felt incredibly modern. The whole collection felt young and relevant. The colours were refreshing and playful for Autumn/Winter; hot pink, red, gold and a summery fresh abstract print (which Theo describes as a lurid acid dripping print featuring burnt-out ruined florals.) Theo balances the young vibe with sophistication through her fabrics; subtly bold ‘jacquard weaves, sand washed silks, leather detailing and hand-applied foil printing’.

Theo wanted to show ‘ecstacy amid ruin’, and that she did. Skirts long at the front and short at the back were surprisingly unconventional and deconstructed; they contrasted with the stunning silks and prints. It was a youthful collection with a devil-may-care attitude yet at points delightfully ‘delicate and refined’.

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