Renowned for his deeply unisex approach, designer J.W. Anderson did not fail to impress this season when he returned to the catwalk with yet another collection that screamed androgyny. In true JWA style, male models were seen waltzing down the catwalk wearing clothes that could have been borrowed from their girlfriends, as accents of femininity emerged in the form of maxi skirts and pink paisley. Anderson still managed to keep an air of masculinity with the presence of tailored blazers and trousers in clean greys, blacks and navys.
Taking inspiration from youth culture and freedom, Anderson managed to create a perfect mix of smart vs. casual in this very British and ever-so-slightly mod AW11 collection. Smart was given a rough edge when Anderson presented tailored jackets with hoods and casual was revamped as t-shirts and cardigans were paired with smart tailored trousers.
Keeping the colour palette clean, JWA opted for inky accents of black and navy, highlighted with fresh whites, creams and sporadic bursts of orange and mint.
This season JWA described his ideal client as ‘free’, which is apparent through this collection that hints towards ‘private school boy on the last day of term’ as we see a strong sense of tailoring and demure accents rebelliously dashed with veins of tearaway youth.
Known for his penchant towards sport-luxe, Central St. Martins’ graduate Christopher Shannon boldly returns to the catwalk with an irresistibly alternative urban look.
Shannon kept his colour palette tight with a flood of monochrome, featuring blacks, whites and greys, carefully punctuated with subtle doses of colour. His daring but oh-so-successful mix of tweed, layered ruffles, quilting and leather brought fresh new dimensions to his fourth Autumn/Winter collection.
Shannon eased on the print this season bringing his designs to a new level of maturity and heightening the sense of luxury. Taking inspiration from ‘people on the street’, raw urban elements are apparent in this collection with the heavy use of sneakers, graffiti-inspired prints and slouchy-cut trousers.
Accessories including back packs, scarves, and flat caps featured heavily in this season’s line, maintained the collection’s playful undertones whilst still projecting an opulent, masculine air.
Christopher Shannon certainly shows he knows how to keep things clean and tight with yet another successful collection by the sport-luxe master.
With “Coney Island Freak Show, The Lost Boys and UK garage” as designer Carrie Mundane’s inspiration, next season’s line is a strong colour cocktail. She showed butch yet kooky illustrative styles, with some models painted gold. The overdone quilted jacket was given new life with two-tone colour and scribble prints. Heavily knitted two-piece suits proudly displayed their yarn construction, with tattoo-shaped embroidery as a sealing symbol to the V-neck shapes. Mundane portrayed an artistically ghetto aesthetic to her beautiful robust models.
KTZ describe their clothing as being “the transgression or movement of the wearer’s feelings and ideas”, and the journey they take menswear on is wacky. Bobble balaclavas, leather candy strip jackets, mammoth faux fur collars, the most graphic of graphic prints: the collection was exciting to put it mildly. Although there were clear artistic roots of inspiration, the male models all looked ultra butch which has been a major style foundation this season. Core garments were masculine, for example chunky farmer boots, but bold colours and prints enhanced this outline look with an additional stylish quality.
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