NEW YORK: SOPHIE THEALLET
French-born Brooklynite Sophie Theallet wowed New York this autumn with her old world, Mexican romance inspired collection, with big printed dresses and off the shoulder dresses juxtaposed against softer lace and nude satin numbers.
Her experience working at both Alaia and Jean Paul Gaultier shone through, with her sophisticated blending of beauty and sensuality. As the winner of this yearʼs highly coveted Vogue Fashion Fund, her simple yet original designs are swiftly moving from fashion obscurity to seasonal must-haves.
In a scant five seasons, Theallet can already count Michelle Obama and Sarah Jessica Parker among her admirers, and as a current Vogue favourite, looks to be making a permanent mark on the New York fashion scene.
A name plucked from obscurity has become an overnight sensation. Hakaan has somehow avoided the natural progression from nobody to ʻone to watchʼ to well known designer, securing a slot on the official schedule with little fuss or attention. That was until a hype began to build around this Turkish designerʼs show with only 48 hours to go.
Suddenly it was billed as the show of the week – with a buzz only usually afforded to big name designers, no doubt due to the selection of high calibre models (Natalia Vodianova, Lara Stone, Abbey Lee and Imogen Morris) and A-listers on the front row (Kate Moss, David Walliams and Carine Roitfeld).
And the collection? A limited palette of white, black, and camel. Very sexy and accomplished. Leather, ostrich feathers and bandage dresses featured heavily, which could earn him comparisons with Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy.
PARIS: VANESSA BRUNO
Launching as a young designer in Paris has been likened to being sent to the sacrifice of the fashion industry. The president of the French Fashion Federation believes that young French designers can only succeed when patterned with an extraordinary manager. However he also believes that without them, there would be no fashion industry. This is why he has worked hard over the years to provide space on the calander for designers such as Vanessa Bruno.
Although she appears to be a prolific designer in Britain, Vanessa Bruno is still a small fish in the Parisian world of Chanel and Dior. She made her first steps into designing along side Dorothée Bis, the Paris based ready-to-wear fashion house, after retiring from modelling. At the tender age of 24, she launched her own line, using herself as the main point of inspiration.
This 2011 collection had all the spring trends: neon, lace and cutouts, with a nod to the tropical prints of Hollywood.
MILAN: ERKAN CORUH
Born in Istanbul, yet based in Milan, this designer is making waves in the fashion world. Last season he won the ʻWho is on Nextʼ competition, and this year won an award in the Wintourhosted ʻA New Generation of Designersʼ initiative for his collection which balances references to his homeland, with a luxurious avant-garde feel.
Ekran has reinvented the burqa, exploring the themes of equality, repression, freedom, religion and politics.
The designer has been hand-picked by Dolce and Gabbana to sell in their newest venture, Spiga 2, a shop dedicated to those they think could be the duoʼs successors. Watch this space.