Ones to watch
Model: Freja Beha
Discovered by chance in her native Denmark, Freja Beja Erichsen is edging her way up models.com’s list of the Top 50 models to watch. The 21 year-old is a seasoned professional now, having become the face of Jil Sander at the tender age of 17, but 2009 marks her real steps into the big league. In the past month, Beja opened and closed the SS09 Chanel couture show, and was the subject of editorials from prestigious magazines such as Vogue Italia, Harper’s Bazaar and Dazed & Confused. Famed for her lithe, androgynous figure, Beja’s boyish features and airy demeanour echo the heroin-chic culture of the early 90s. Intelligent and self-aware in interviews, her future is bright.
Trend: 80s
The Spring/Summer shows are a time for frivolity. Giles was inspired by graphic designers of the 80’s for his collection, which even paid homage to Pacman. Stella presented modern power dressing that was sexy and androgynous, with casual tailoring and strong shoulders. Elsewhere, neon colour blocking, simple body-con shapes and shimmering fabrics were accessorised with outrageously oversized bows and jewellery for maximum impact. Heart prints at Moschino also echoed such childish girlishness. We all chant: Long live the 80s.
Designer: Sado
Sado is an up-and-coming label that has made an impact in the past few years on the off-schedules of both London Fashion week and its Muscovite equivalent. The clothing is clearly designed with an acute sense of commercial viability, and as such the lines are clear, simple and feminine. Milanese designer Carlotta Gherzi is the creative director, and claims that the label is about “freedom in building shapes and abstract figures without following any any rules or geometric laws”. Translated into fabric, this equates to mixing wide and narrow shapes with easy, flowing effects. Contemporary references to Stella McCartney and Marni are evident in Sado’s collections.
Accessory: Headpiece
Chanel rarely disappoints and this season’s collection epitomised the exquisite decadence that is the very nature of couture. Lagerfield’s partnership with Japanese hairdresser Kamo truly lifted the collection beyond all other shows. Headwear is often explored as an aesthetic tool that pushes the boundaries of accessorising. Kamo’s pieces were pure white; origami garland crowns of flower corsages and ribbons that were cut with precision craftmanship and intricate detail. The effect was fresh simplicity that rescued the look from mundane minimalism.
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