Liam O’Brien’s picks for this edition
Designer: Sara Lanzi
Tipped for big things by industry insiders and online fashion bible Style.com, contemporary art graduate Lanzi ascended the ranks at label Linea before going solo. Her simple, wearable designs display a restricted colour palate alongside loud, clever and oversized pleating. Lanzi beat 200 other designers to win Vogue Italia’s prestigious annual ‘Who is on next’ competition, judged by the publication’s editor, Franca Sozzani, and chief buyers for Harvey Nichols and Saks stores.
This versatile trend has been interpreted in a multitude of ways by innumerable designers. Pugh reinvigorated the traditional street goth idea, but more diverse takes on the subculture can be found both before and after his emergence. Newcomer Hannah Marshall finds sophistication in matt black PVC fabric, and McQueen’s last RTW collection, an exploration of the historical, the medieval and the monarchical, using gothic and pagan symbols to tie a broad spectrum of influences together. Goth is everywhere from Mary-Kate’s haunted eyes to the hilarious Sunday Times take on ‘Nu-grave’.
Model: Rosie Whiteley
Originally hailed (as many are) as the new Kate Moss, Huntington-Whiteley’s career stagnated after initial promise, going from walking for Basso and Brooke, Elle covers and Victoria’s Secret campaigns to Topshop and the Next catalogue. Since being poached by the Models1 agency, though, she has flourished, and is set to replace the ‘overexposed’ Aggy D in Burberry’s Autumn/Winter campaign.
Rykiel and Gaultier used sailor-wear in their recent collections, and perhaps this high fashion influence, combined with the fabulous Sweeney Todd beach-gear is what gave the high street licence to repeat this trend. Really though, it’s the cold hard cash. Topshop’s ‘Admiralty’ line was a top seller, and whilst the clothes aren’t bad, churning out mild variations on quite a niche idea year after year shows the domination of the business impulse over new fashion.