Bar: Pivo
Address: 6 Patrick Pool
Average drink price: £3
Rating: * * * *

I’ve visited Pivo three times this week – an achievement which owes more to coincidence than enthusiasm. Nevertheless, this handsome continental café-bar has much to praise.

I have never been to a Bavarian beerhaus but, if my imagination serves me correctly, each one should have at least one long, knobbly, wooden bar-top carved from the bole of a great hornbeam, several hundred variety lagers flavoured with all manner of implausible fruit and veg and one winsome barmaid who is blonde and pigtailed, and built by the same company that did Munich cathedral.

Replace the barrel-chested lager mistress with a severe barman in a baroque earring, and Pivo is pretty much there. ‘What’s Ninkeberry?’ I asked, peering suspiciously at the inscrutable bar menu.

A charming bargirl replied: ‘It’s a mixed-fruit beer, but there’s a picture of a pomegranate on the label to indicate its primary flavour.’ Ninkeberry is very compelling, but avoid the draught Schneider Weisse which tastes of sweetcorn.

Pivo also serves paninis, which provoked an irritating conversation on the correct way to form the plural of a borrowed word. These looked good and seemed to be popular. Boys should make a trip to the loo, where the urinal is nothing less than the hellish, a gaping maw of a metal gargoyle. Enough said.

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