Designer: James Long
Formerly bereft of the capacity to mix and match, Gareth Pugh fanatics have mobilised and found a new designer to complement the metagoth look. RCA menswear graduate James Long got a bit of media attention recently as his collection for Man by Topman was stolen hours after it debuted at London Fashion Week. A look at his graduate collection and his shoot with Dazed and Confused, however, show where his heart lies: leather, harnesses, S&M, exaggerated silhouettes and the notion of “approaching the body in totality.”
Model: Mia Niara
Discovered by Alber Elbaz, creative director at Lanvin, Mia Niara was exclusive to his fashion house for her first year in the business. Though she by no means gets the most campaigns, shows or shoots, Niara’s portfolio is fantastic: she closed a Gold Label Vivienne Westwood show and modelled couture for Jean Paul Gaultier. Let’s hope she can help reverse the trend of using less black models on the catwalk.
Whilst a lot of it looks like it wouldn’t be out of place in Oxfam’s 99p bargain bin, the fun with vintage shops like this is to have a rummage and find the good stuff. A pair of snakeskin cowboy boots and a large range of cocktail and ball dresses are higlights. Old suitcases, taxidermy and worn-out shoes decorate this Grape Lane treasure, whicthough not perfect has a nice ambience and enthusiastic staff.
Two of the most consistently well designed ready to wear collections are John Galliano’s own label and Alexander McQueen. Both recently contained obvious oriental strains: McQueen’s in the elm-patterned fabric and ornate headpieces, and John Galliano’s reflected in shockingly bright feathers and houri pants. Expect tatty high street dresses and Willow Pattern ceramic jewellery to follow soon.