Design duo Rafaele Borrielo and Julien Desselle make up what they describe as ‘Maison Requiem’. They use the traditional techniques of a couture atelier but work from an old Parisian brothel. Between them they’ve worked for Gucci, Rykiel. Yves Saint Laurent and Dior. Their aim is to marry haute couture with industrialisation, taking inspiration from 40’s and 50’s parties. Though their designs currently lack confidence, the recent spring collection showed flair with shape and colour.
Model: Luke Worrall
Signed to D1, Worrall is a consistent magazine face and is establishing a catwalk profile with Lanvin and Marc Jacobs. Despite a tiny chest measurement of 33”, blonde hair and emo piercings, he evokes a rebellious, adolescent masculinity.
Shop: Sarah Coggles
There are a lot of people at this university who waste money on Ugg boots and dreadful lounge suits. Instead, head for Sarah Coggles on Low Petergate. The mens shop stocks Raf Simons and its counterpart for women houses Vivienne Westwood shoes, many of which are on sale.
Androgyny is a recurring theme every couple of seasons, necessitated by the growth of fashion for men and the importance of practicality and empowerment in women’s fashion. Though recent collections didn’t quite reach that early 80’s ‘gender bender’ zenith of Pete Burns and Grace Jones, admirable nods to the concept are beginning to show themselves. Miuccia Prada used male models with cinched waists, and removed buttons on shirts and suits, rendering them almost dress-like. In terms of women’s collections, Ann Demeulemeester shocked Paris this season with masculine ensembles.