On the Arts Trail
Amy Milka discovers York’s cultural side
First impressions aren’t always right. For some freshers, York may seem a little twee. Initially, I too became frustrated by the constant flow of tourists riding open-top buses in the freezing cold, taking photos of completely spurious buildings and clogging up the Shambles. I’ve often heard those who are used to the hustle and bustle of big city life call York “too small”. However, behind the façade of Betty’s and the unmistakable musk of the Yorvik Viking Centre lies a city alive with culture, waiting to be discovered.
York was traditionally England’s second city, acting as an administrative centre for the unruly North. The courts of London were replicated here to enforce the King’s Law, and York was also the headquarters for many trades and crafts. The Merchant Adventurer’s Hall, for example, is one of the oldest buildings in the city, built before 1361. Before you leave, you’ll probably have an opportunity to attend a college or society ball in this historic place. In much of the city, beautiful Tudor buildings are still very much in use as restaurants and shops, which creates a feeling of being steeped in history. A fact to impress your new housemates: Whip-ma-whop-ma Gate (next to the Shambles) is so called because it used to be the site of a whipping post where criminals were flogged. You can almost feel the onomatopoeia.
But on to York today. Arts enthusiasts, or anyone wishing to inject a little culture into their lives, will be spoilt for choice. Next to the historic King’s Manor (the University’s centre for Medieval Studies, which often features its own exhibitions) is York Art Gallery. A quiet haven after the bustle of the city centre, the gallery features a number of semi-permanent exhibits in addition to a variety of visiting collections. Recent highlights have included a selection of Japanese paintings and ceramics; ‘Relationships’, an exploration of mixed media in modern art; and the tantalisingly titled ‘Mad Man in the Minster’ exhibition of paintings and sketches.
From October 6, just in time for the new term, the gallery will play host to an exhibition of Tracey Emin’s work, and a collection entitled ‘Marking Time’, comprising pictures of York from sunrise to sunset.
Having whet your appetite for culture, and maybe a little lunch, why not head back into the city centre to VJ’s Art Bar, where the colourful modern works on the walls are all for sale, and the alley outside is illuminated at night by projections from local contributors.
Near the Minster, on and around High Petergate lie a number of smaller arts and crafts shops, topped off by the student’s choice, Shared Earth. Here you can pick up fair trade jewellery, ornaments, and pretty much anything else at a reasonable price. A few hours can also be well spent in the Castle Museum, where an entire Victorian street has been recreated.
If you enjoy treasure hunting, York offers a large number of antique shops, but undoubtedly the most interesting is the Banana Warehouse on Picadilly. Amongst the plastic ‘80s junk and old workout videos, great pieces of furniture, old books and trinkets can be found on the cheap.
As evening draws in, the arts fan has a choice of venues at their disposal. The Grand Opera House has secured a spot on the touring circuit of many popular musicals (Chicago was a recent highlight), also offering opera and ballet from both nationally renowned and local companies.
The City Screen in the town centre acts as far more than just a cinema, playing host to the weekly gathering of the Other Side Comedy Club, where up and coming comedians try out their material every Sunday. The cinema also regularly shows classic films as well as some edgy, arthouse flicks.
Alternatively, one of the best value choices is York Theatre Royal, which offers a student concession at £3.50 for the majority of its performances, making it a lot cheaper than a night at the cinema. The theatre has forged links with many local amteur and youth groups, offering a wide variety of music, dance and plays in addition to the professional productions.
So in your first few weeks at York, why not take some time to explore what the city has to offer. A walk around the walls is a great way to see the city from a new perspective, just make sure it’s a nice day! Wander in the Museum Gardens, or the grounds of the Minster where, during the summer months, you can see open-air productions of Shakespeare or Wilde. Certainly, as a new arrival you will want to see inside the Minster, which has become something of a tourist trap in recent years with the introduction of turnstiles and a large entrance fee. But there are many experiences that won’t cost a penny. The Art Gallery is always free, and the city hosts several festivals per year, packing the streets with markets and street performers.
And finally, remember, you don’t have to be a History of Art student or know about Brecht to enjoy the art gallery or the theatre once in a while.
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